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The idea of old was to conform yourself to a style of cooking, it was not to create a style of cooking. Now the chef is so much into 'I want to sign that dish and say I am the one who made that dish.

Jacques Pepin
Ideas, Cooking, Style
"Jacques Pepin: Consumers May Pay Price Of Chefs’ Fame" By J.M. HIRSCH, www.huffingtonpost.com. October 3, 2011.
The idea of old was to conform yourself to a style of cooking, it was not to create a style of cooking. Now the chef is so much into 'I want to sign that dish and say I am the one who made that dish.