Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love and it's a part of me.
Like, with one arm I know I can surf, but competitive surfing can be really frustrating, and sometimes you don't do as well as you want to. It can be discouraging at times. But whenever I do get frustrated, I just focus on God.
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.
I don't know how long I'll be competing but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.
Both of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.
