Life is a wave of creative consciousness rippling through space and time that we have the honor of aesthetically surfing.
The noise resembles the roar of heavy, distant surf. Standing on the stirring ice one can imagine it is disturbed by the breathing and tossing of a mighty giant below.
With Crazy Horse, it's all one big, growing, smoldering sound, and I'm part of it. It's like gliding, or some sort of natural surfing.
It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.
I was in Jersey when the whole World Trade Center thing happened and I felt powerless. So, I went to Hawaii and did a surf movie. It's kind of fluffy.
Waves are not measured in feet or inches, they are measured in increments of fear.
Surfing is not my strong point. And... I don't really have a tan. I go to the tanning place, the one that sprays you with color.
Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true.
There's an independence to surfing, it's just you and the ocean. There aren't a bunch of rules.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
I can be a little bit outrageous. I can be a lot of things. I'm a bit of an adrenaline junkie, so I love to go out there and do kind of crazy stuff which is slightly outrageous, like bungee jumping, skydiving, surfing and that sort of stuff. But I also like to just chill with my friends and go and see movies and do normal things.
If in doubt, paddle out.
I'm a tropical weather cruiser. I like surfing, you know. I like being on the beach.
Surfing is an individual expression of one's own worth and one's own ability to participate directly with nature. And what makes it really enjoyable to me is that every wave is different... there's a special, non-repetitive pleasure in it that never gets boring.
Charting is a little like surfing. You dont have to know a lot about the physics of tides, resonance, and fluid dynamics in order to catch a good wave. You just have to be able to sense when its happening and then have the drive to act at the right time.
The rule of surfing is never tell anyone where you go.
Everyone gets caught inside when surfing. You have 2 options. Give up or paddle outside. Life is the same. Keep paddling!
Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
Annabeth came up to me. She was dressed in black camouflage with her Celestial bronze knife strapped to her arm and her laptop bag slung over her shoulder—ready for stabbing or surfing the Internet, whichever came first.
I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.
There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people's happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . .
Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
It's all about where your mind's at
I can be surfing the exact same wave and then sometimes something will just set off, even if I'm riding the same board the whole time. Something will just set off and it just feels like you can push just that extra bit harder.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
