Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.
It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.
It's all about where your mind's at
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.
Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.
Well I'm always working on constantly everything. I never take the approach that I'm doing as well as I possibly can... I always think there's more and I think if you don't have that, you are not driven to be better.
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
I want to surf better tomorrow. I want to surf better in 10 years. When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.
A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.
There are so many different elements to surfing. Small waves, big waves, long boards, short boards. This makes it a sport you can share with people. It's not just a solitary thing - it's become a family thing, too. It's about exercising and passing something on from father to son, and from mother to daughter.
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
Everything started coming into my head, ... I was the youngest world champ and now I'm the oldest world champ; it's been seven years since I won my last title and this is my seventh one ... but all those numbers and things are not as important as the feeling.
This was the most emotional title of my career. I was the youngest champion, and now I'm the oldest.
I'm the competitor, I'm the one who has to wear the brunt of that being a good or bad score. And I'm not too worried about it. I don't know why so many are to be honest with you.
I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.
I was stuck for 16 months without a win there, and now I've had five this year. Once you break that barrier for yourself it makes it easier; you're not thinking about it... It opened up the floodgate for me.
Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently its the most difficult thing in the world.
I’m honored that PBteen has seen me as someone who can help a broader audience understand the need to use recycled, repurposed and organic materials. Global conservation is a focal point of the capsule collection and it falls right in line with the change and direction I’m working towards, on a professional and personal basis. In collaborating with PBteen, we are creating a subtle and natural feel with this collection - something that has an authentic appeal for teens and their parents alike.
To receive a 10-point ride is a blessing in itself, but to have it honored by giving to those who could use a little support to accomplish the things they want to do in life is a bigger blessing. The school is something I believe hugely in. They provide a special place for kids to understand things that many people avoid or never learn to deal with their whole lives.
