Traders and Surfers both have to deal with feelings of missing out on the small ones, until the big one comes along. They also have to deal with feelings of staying with the big one.
I don’t know why terrible things happen to us sometimes. But I have to believe that something good is going to come of this.
I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
He who suffers in patience, surfers less and saves his soul. He who suffers impatiently, suffers more and loses his soul.
Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
Thank God for a few free waves.
It's not tragic to die doing something you love.
Love is bigger than any tidal wave or fear.
It's true. Happiness is a big thing.
I'm seeking out a new way to live and if it's surfing, that's the way I'll do it. I'll be a surfer for the rest of my life.
Cornwall has lots of folk and Celtic music and has that kind of surfer vibe as well. That was my kind of upbringing.
I'm more of like a recreational surfer, not a consist surfer. Some people get out every week or every day.
I'm a channel surfer when it comes to radio, a little bit of everything.
It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.
As a surfer, I am interested in the ocean. And I am concerned and interested in all of these natural and cultural rumblings underfoot as well.
I like surfers. Their imagery, it's great.
If there was no such thing as barrels I probably wouldn't even surf.
Surfers have the most attitude.
All surfers are joined by one ocean.
I'd blurted out the question only to keep him from noticing that I was working my hands free, but the Warden behind me, some young brown-haired surfer dude, yelled a warning. "She's getting loose!" Narc.
I'm actually a very bad surfer, which is good because everybody likes a bad surfer. Nobody likes a good surfer.
I'm a pretty basic surfer.
I am a surfer, though quite a poor one.
