It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.
Health is more than the mere absence of disease, it's the presence of a superior state of well being, a pizzazz, a vitality that has to be worked for each and every day of your life. You cannot get it in a bottle or from Dr. Phil. Its got to be gotten through diet and execise and rest and recreation and attitudes of mind working all together every day of your life and then, young men can become supermen and old men can become older.
There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.
Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.
I love to be called Doc.
It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.
The greatest thing in life is health.
When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
Health is survival. But survival with style and class.
A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.
The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers; we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.
Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.
My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.
Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
God loves happy people.
I'm one of the few dumb Jewish doctors.
I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.
Health begets Spirit.
Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.
Everything that mattered, I learned from surfing.
